Last updated
Last updated
Ignoring the list or assuming support will just be added later can lead to costly mistakes.
Drive Hub is quite capable, performing feats ranging from bringing a list of old and new wheels to modern consoles, to bridging together top-tier racing equipment from mixed brands. With unrivalled compatibility, you may think it a miracle box, but be mindful of what it can and can't do...
What it can do
What it can't do
Can translate/convert a wheel on its Compatibility List to appear as an appropriate supported wheel of the console.
Can't be used with wheels not on its Compatibility List.
Can be used with Xbox Series X|S®, Xbox One®, PS5®, PS4®, PS3® GT5/6. Non-native wheel on PS5® requires HORI® Wired Mini Gamepad, HORI® Fighting Commander OCTA switched to PS4® mode, or NACON® Wired Compact Controller.
Can't be used with Android, iOS, Switch, PC, XCloud®, Xbox 360®, or any unsupported gaming platforms.
Can effectively adapt Sensitivity & Force Feedback (FFB) for wheel supporting games on its Compatibility List. Supports Logitech® G Pro 11 Nm TrueForce overcoming GT7 cap.
Can't guarantee functionality with games not on its Compatibility List. Incompatible with controller only games.
Can support Fanatec® mode on PS4/5®, for its features, buttons, and display, if supported.
Can't be used with accessories not on its Compatibility List.
Can mix & match accessories on its Compatibility List. Handbrake support for Logitech® on Xbox®, and on PS4/5® via LogiFan mode. Legacy Logitech® accessories for other wheels via Co-Pilot (separate purchase).
Can't remap. All mapping is carefully decided by Drive Hub team. Xbox® supports less wheel buttons/cannot use extra buttons on PS®/PC wheels.
Can provide RPM LED gauge presenting real time feedback on PS4/5®.
Can't provide RPM LED gauge on Xbox®.
This section will familiarize you with Drive Hub, additional items you may need to source, and the overall planning of your setup.
As of newer Drive Hub firmware, "P1" button will reboot the device, whereas "P2" button will enter its Firmware Update mode.
LEDs for the "Controller", "Wheel/Controller", and "Accessory" ports will light up when successfully connected, which can help with troubleshooting controller or cable issues!
"RPM LED" gauge is for PS4/5® consoles only. It will present real time feedback from your game, which is ideal if your wheel lacks this feature.
"Console" port is for connecting to your console for use, but it is also for updating Drive Hub's firmware (to avoid issues, only set up Drive Hub after you have installed the latest firmware version).
"Controller" port's use depends on whether your wheel is native or non-native to your Xbox® / PS5® / PS4® console:
As a native wheel already supports your console, there is no need for an authentication controller. A native wheel must be plugged into the "Controller" port to pass through and function optimally, leaving the "Wheel/Controller" port often empty in such setups. For PS5®, this avoids a costly purchase of a compatible specialty controller. ❗ Be aware that if your wheel has a true PS5® mode, you must still use the PS4® mode, even on PS5®. ❗
For a non-native wheel that does not support your console, an authentication controller must be plugged into the "Controller" port:
Drive Hub was packaged before USB-C was used in consoles. For a controller with a USB-C port, you will need a USB A to C cable. Ensure it supports data transfer!
"Wheel/Controller" port is for a non-native wheel that does not support your Xbox® / PS5® / PS4® console. It can often be repurposed as an extra accessory port in native wheel setups.
For "Microsoft® 360 Wireless Wheel" use, source a "360 Wireless Gaming Receiver" for the "Wheel/Controller" port. The official Microsoft® one, or an unofficial one.
For "Thrustmaster® TX/TS-XW Wheel" on older PS4/5® games prior to around Fall 2019, you will need to downgrade your wheel firmware to play these older games. See more details here.
"Accessory" port is for pedals, shifters, and handbrakes that your wheel does not support through a direct connection. You can also mix brands for that "dream setup". If you "can" connect an accessory natively to your wheel and it works, it is recommended to do so as your wheel will then power it. Otherwise, to plug in more than one accessory, overall power draw will determine what you can get away with. In native wheel setups with two low-power accessories, you can repurpose the empty "Wheel/Controller" port for one of the accessories. However, if you have three accessories, or a high-power draw accessory, you will need a powered USB hub plugged into the wall to connect to the "Accessory" port.
An accessory may require an additional purchase to adapt it to the USB "Accessory" port, such as Thrustmaster® T.RJ12 USB Adapter or Fanatec® ClubSport USB Adapter, detailed on the Compatibility List. Legacy Logitech® accessories not connected to a Logitech® wheel require Co-Pilot (separate purchase).
Accessories may require initial configuration on Windows PC, e.g. pedal calibration. Fanatec® CS 1.5 via ClubSport Adapter must be set to handbrake through its software.
After introducing new pedals, fully press down each pedal individually for about 10 seconds, then release fully. This will calibrate Drive Hub to the full pedal range.
For a native or non-native wheel with Drive Hub on a PlayStation®3 console, it must always be plugged into the "Wheel/Controller" port regardless. Do not use an authentication controller! Drive Hub will display an E but in this case it means Emulator.
PS3® support is ONLY for two games:
Grand Turismo® 5 & 6.
Please be aware wheels DO NOT support headsets! This means a non-functional 3.5mm audio port on any controller connected to Drive Hub for the purpose of authenticating a non-native wheel. You will need to use another solution, such as a wireless headset or USB wired headset if supported.
Upon a successful connection, Drive Hub will indicate the detected wheel before settling on a solid 0 (PS3® displays an E instead. For other consoles E usually suggests a problem with the authenticating controller or a cable issue).
