Native Wheel Setup (Pass Through)
Native Wheel Setup (Pass Through)
Follow these steps to use Drive Hub with a racing wheel that is natively compatible with your console:
Review the Compatibility List, and ensure your wheel is on the list, even when it is already compatible with your console! Visit the Firmware Update page, and update Drive Hub to the latest firmware version.
Use only high-quality, certified data transfer cables. Avoid extensions or a combined cable length exceeding 3m (10ft), as USB power degrades over distance.
Turn ON your console using its power button instead of your controller. Wait for your console to fully start up and reach the PlayStation® login screen or Xbox® home screen. DO NOT launch a game yet:
AVOID turning on your console with your controller, as this will connect it wirelessly to the "Player 1" spot, which could cause issues with a game trying to detect your wheel. If you have accidentally turned on your controller, 
HOLD its PS/HOME button until your controller turns OFF.
Where possible, connect any accessories that are already compatible with your wheel directly to the wheel itself.
If present, ensure the mode switch on your wheel is set to match your console:
For wheels with a true PS5® mode, this is UNSUPPORTED. Please use PS4® mode, even on a PS5® console.
Connect your wheel to Drive Hub's "Controller" port, leaving its "Wheel/Controller" port empty. This setup will optimally pass through your native wheel as is.
The purpose of using Drive Hub with a wheel that already natively supports your console, is you can still use it to mix and match accessories from other brands.
Connect your additional accessory to Drive Hub's "Accessory" port.
If you have two additional accessories, (e.g. a shifter & handbrake), you can usually connect the handbrake to the unused "Wheel/Controller" port.
Depending on how power hungry your accessories are, how long your cables are, and mandatory if you want to connect three additional accessories (e.g. different brand pedals, plus a shifter and handbrake), you may need to connect a powered USB hub (one that plugs into the wall/mains) between the "Accessory" port and your accessories. Power issues usually manifest as disconnections, and Force Feedback (FFB) dropping out.
Connect the included 6ft Micro USB cable to Drive Hub's "Console" port, and then connect the other end to your console.
Drive Hub will begin calibration, displaying the wheel's model number on Drive Hub's display (e.g. Logitech G29 will be displayed as G-2-9) and potentially other information before indicating it is successfully connected.
For Xbox®/PS5®/PS4®, successfully connected is a zero
. If Drive Hub settles on an E (or backwards "3") instead, see below:
On Xbox®/PS5®/PS4®, Drive Hub displays an E when there is an Error in your setup. You will need to determine the source of this issue. Possible causes include:
Cable issue, such as power only or bad cable.
Forgot to set PS5®/PS4® console's "Communication Method" to "Use USB Cable".
Quick Resume game on Xbox® is confused and needs to be closed/restarted.
Forgot native wheel should be in Drive Hub's "Controller" port, NOT its "Wheel/Controller" port, or using authentication controller when NOT supposed to.
Mistakenly switched to non-native wheel mode.
Mistaken Xbox 360® or PS3® wheel as native wheel. These are non-native to Xbox Series X|S® / Xbox One® / PS5® / PS4®.
Drive Hub LEDs for "Controller", "Wheel/Controller", "Accessory" ports. If plugged in but off or not staying solid, may hint at cause.
Combination of wheel and accessory firmware being used.
Forgot to plug wheel into wall/mains.
Drive Hub EEPROM issue;
HOLD P2 (long press), located right of Drive Hub's Gearhead logo, to erase EEPROM.Drive Hub booted before everything is properly connected, or while console in standby. Reboot Drive Hub in STEP 10.
PRESS & RELEASE the P1 button, located left of Drive Hub's Gearhead logo, to reboot Drive Hub and recalibrate your wheel. DO NOT touch anything during the calibration sequence. Once the wheel has finished turning, and Drive Hub displays zero , it is ready to use.
For Fanatec® wheels on PS4/5®,
PRESSING & RELEASING P1 will automatically switch to the native Fanatec® protocol mode (F) for an optimal experience if supported saving this setting for future use. For older games, the wheel will not work in this mode, and you will need to switch to FanaLogic mode (L) instead. Both modes will be covered on the Fanatec®/Logitech® Modes for PS4/5® page.For Logitech® wheels on PS4/5®, to use a handbrake, you will need to switch to LogiFan mode (FFF) which will be covered on the Fanatec®/Logitech® Modes for PS4/5® page.
Accessories Troubleshooting
Accessories TroubleshootingWhen using accessories that are NOT designed to connect directly to your wheel, you may encounter the following:
An accessory may require an additional purchase to adapt it to the USB "Accessory" port, such as Thrustmaster® T.RJ12 USB Adapter or Fanatec® ClubSport USB Adapter, detailed on the Compatibility List. Legacy Logitech® accessories if not connected to a Logitech® wheel will require a Co-Pilot (separate purchase).
We DO NOT support Leo Bodnar®, homemade projects, or anything NOT listed on the Compatibility List. If you discover something works, feel free to let us know at support@collectiveminds.ca but understand that we CANNOT provide support or advice for it.
Multiple accessories usually require a powered USB hub (one that plugs into the wall/mains) between the "Accessory" port and your accessories.
Accessories such as shifters, handbrakes, and pedals may require initial configuration on Windows PC, e.g. pedal calibration. For example, Fanatec® CS 1.5 via ClubSport Adapter must be set to handbrake through its respective software.
If your pedals are not fully accelerating or braking, fully press down each pedal individually for about 10 seconds, then release fully. This will calibrate Drive Hub to the full pedal range.
If your pedals are mapped incorrectly, follow the Pedal Mapping page.
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