Last updated
Images of supported controllers for each console are provided for identification purposes only, and the following brands are NOT affiliated with Collective Minds™ or DRIVEHUB™:
Xbox Series X|S® / Xbox One® Console: Standard Xbox® Wireless Controller:
PlayStation®4 Console: Standard DualShock®4 V2 (CUH-ZCT2) Controller (NOT the CUH-ZCT1, which is incompatible with wired communication). CUH-ZCT2 can be identified by its back label and its touchpad, which has a line of light passing through it:
PlayStation®5 Console: Supported PS4® Specialty Controller; HORI® Wired Mini Gamepad, HORI® Fighting Commander OCTA switched to PS4® mode, or NACON® Wired Compact Controller:
Due to the strict security measures Sony® has in place, you CANNOT use the standard PS4® DualShock® or any PS5® controller, DualSense® or otherwise, for PlayStation®5 authentication with Drive Hub. If you try, your wheel setup will frequently disconnect.
Depending on how power hungry your accessory is, how long your cables are, and mandatory if you want to connect more than one accessory, you may need to connect a powered USB hub (one that plugs into the wall/mains) between the "Accessory" port and your accessories. Power issues usually manifest as disconnections, and Force Feedback (FFB) dropping out.
On Xbox®/PS5®/PS4®, Drive Hub displays an E when there is an Error in your setup. You will need to determine the source of this issue. Possible causes include:
Cable issue, such as power only or bad cable.
Controller is connected wirelessly, or has bad port, even if it charges fine.
Forgot to set PS5®/PS4® console's "Communication Method" to "Use USB Cable".
Quick Resume game on Xbox® is confused and needs to be closed/restarted.
Drive Hub LEDs for "Controller", "Wheel/Controller", "Accessory" ports. If plugged in but off or not staying solid, may hint at cause.
Combination of wheel and accessory firmware being used.
Forgot to plug wheel into wall/mains.
Switched to unsupported wheel mode.
Drive Hub booted before everything is properly connected, or while console in standby. Reboot Drive Hub in STEP 11.
When converting a non-native wheel, Drive Hub is emulating the functionality of supported wheel of your console, and it is this emulated wheel that will show up in your game. Expect some limitations; for example, PlayStation® wheel protocols support more buttons and RPM features that WILL NOT carry over to an Xbox® console. Drive Hub can only scale to what your console supports. Advanced PC features, especially those tied to PC software (NOT stored on the wheel or accessory) will be unavailable, and as conversion scaling can never be 1:1, expect differences in feel from using your wheel in its native environment.
When using accessories that are NOT designed to connect directly to your wheel, you may encounter the following:
Multiple accessories usually require a powered USB hub (one that plugs into the wall/mains) between the "Accessory" port and your accessories.
Accessories such as shifters, handbrakes, and pedals may require initial configuration on Windows PC, e.g. pedal calibration. For example, Fanatec® CS 1.5 via ClubSport Adapter must be set to handbrake through its respective software.
If your pedals are not fully accelerating or braking, fully press down each pedal individually for about 10 seconds, then release fully. This will calibrate Drive Hub to the full pedal range.
Please be aware wheels DO NOT support headsets! This means a non-functional 3.5mm audio port on any controller connected to Drive Hub for the purpose of authenticating a non-native wheel. You will need to use another solution, such as a wireless headset or USB wired headset if supported.
Follow these steps to use Drive Hub's protocol conversion feature and play with a racing wheel that is otherwise incompatible with your console:
Review the , visit the page, and update Drive Hub to the latest firmware version.
Use only high-quality, certified data transfer cables. Avoid extensions or a combined cable length exceeding 3m (10ft), as USB power degrades over distance.
Turn ON your console using its power button instead of your controller. Wait for your console to fully start up and reach the PlayStation® login screen or Xbox® home screen. DO NOT launch a game yet:
AVOID turning on your console with your controller, as this will connect it wirelessly when you need it to perform a wired authentication role. If you have accidentally turned on your controller, HOLD its PS/HOME button until your controller turns OFF.
Connect the appropriate controller for your console to Drive Hub's "Controller" port.
"PS4® Specialty Controllers" beyond the three listed "may" also work but compatibility is NOT guaranteed. If you do happen to confirm that one works, please let us know at
Where possible, connect any accessories that are already compatible with your wheel directly to the wheel itself.
Set any mode switch on your wheel accordingly; non-native Fanatec® wheels must be switched to PC mode, Logitech® G29 wheel must be switched to PS4® mode, etc.
Connect your non-native wheel to Drive Hub's "Wheel/Controller" port.
If you have an additional accessory, connect it to Drive Hub's "Accessory" port.
Connect the included 6ft Micro USB cable to Drive Hub's "Console" port, and then connect the other end to your console.
Your controller will automatically turn on, going through its usual connection sequence, before remaining on. Drive Hub will begin calibration, displaying the wheel's model number on Drive Hub's display (e.g. Logitech G27 will be displayed as G-2-7) and potentially other information before indicating it is successfully connected.
For Xbox®/PS5®/PS4®, successfully connected is a zero . If Drive Hub settles on an E (or backwards "3") instead, see below:
Drive Hub EEPROM issue; HOLD P2 (long press), located right of Drive Hub's Gearhead logo, to erase EEPROM.
PRESS & RELEASE the P1 button, located left of Drive Hub's Gearhead logo, to reboot Drive Hub and recalibrate your wheel. DO NOT touch anything during the calibration sequence. Once the wheel has finished turning, and Drive Hub displays zero , it is ready to use.
For Fanatec® wheels on PS4/5®, PRESSING & RELEASING P1 will automatically switch to the native Fanatec® protocol mode (F) for an optimal experience if supported, saving this setting for future use. For older games, the wheel will not work in this mode, and you will need to switch to FanaLogic mode (L) instead. Both modes will be covered on the page.
For Logitech® wheels on PS4/5®, to use a handbrake, you will need to switch to LogiFan mode (FFF) which will be covered on the page.
An accessory may require an additional purchase to adapt it to the USB "Accessory" port, such as Thrustmaster® T.RJ12 USB Adapter or Fanatec® ClubSport USB Adapter, detailed on the . Legacy Logitech® accessories if not connected to a Logitech® wheel will require a Co-Pilot (separate purchase).
We DO NOT support Leo Bodnar®, homemade projects, or anything NOT listed on the . If you discover something works, feel free to let us know at but understand that we CANNOT provide support or advice for it.
If your pedals are mapped incorrectly, follow the page.
